Ravi Speaks:
'PHERAN'-A
UNIVERSALLY POPULAR KASHMIR TRADITIONAL WEAR
Meaning and Pronunciation of Pheran:-
Pheran or phiran [pronunciation] is
the traditional outfit for both males and females in the Kashmir Valley. The
pheran comprises two gowns, one over the other. The traditional pheran
extends to the feet, which was popular up to the late 19th century C.E. However,
a relatively modern variation of the pheran extends to below the knees, which
is worn with a suthan inside (a loose form of shalwar) similar to the styles
worn in Afghanistan. It is optional to wear the suthan with a long pheran
as traditionally lower garments are not worn with pherans. The traditional
pherans do not have side slits.
In
summer, the pheran is made of cotton, but in winter, the pheran is made
of wool, covering and protecting the body from the cold, especially
during the snow. These dresses are used by the residents of the Kashmir
valley and Kashmiris residing in Chenab Valley.
What
is Pheran?
The
pheran is a loose upper garment loosely gathered at the sleeves which tend to
be wide made of either wool or jamewar which is a mixture of wool and
cotton, with no side slits. A pheran made of wool is called a 'loch' Female
pheran dresses are designed with colorful flower-like designed elements
and styles. Male pheran dresses are quite simple without any colorful design.
The
traditional pheran falls to the feet like a gown which was universally
worn by the Hindu and Muslim communities into the later 19th century C.E. However,
a modern version is knee-length and is worn by Muslim people which is loose and
stitched at the front side and on the finishes while Hindu people wear their
pherans long, extending down their legs. Ankle-length Pherans are tied at the
waist. Intricate embroideries or flower styles are a popular function of a
Kashmiri ladies' pheran. The embroideries or flower Styles are made of thin
metal threads and this kind of embroidery is known as 'Tille' in the Kashmiri
language.
What
is Pootz?
The
pootz is the same as the pheran but made of a lighter material and is worn
beneath the pheran. It is generally used to save the pheran from burns due
to kangri. It also provides extra heat during winters, double-layered
protection, from the cold winter days.
Pheran-Depiction
of Kashmiri-Culture:-
Pheran
is part of the Kashmiri culture, fashion, and daily life. Men, women, and
children, all wear it. Pheran is a traditional long dress that covers the
entire body up to the knees. Women wear colorful pherans with embroideries
like aari, sozni, and tilla work.
The
pheran, also spelled phiran, is a long robe worn in Kashmir mostly in the
winter as protection against the cold. The unisex garment has long been part of
Kashmir's traditional wear and is associated with the Kashmiri identity as much
as the Kangri and the Kashmiri cuisine.
Pheran
and Pootz is the term given to the traditional Kashmiri attire worn by
Kashmiri men and women. Pheran(also called Phyaran) is a long coat or cloak
made of wool or tweed, worn both by women and men. Pheran & Pootstogether
make two sets of cloak or gowns were worn one above the other.
Myths
surrounding Kashmiri-Pheran:-
Many
myths are surrounding Kashmir Pheran. Some believe that it was Emperor Mughal
Akbar who introduced the long garments into the Kashmir Valley, while others
believe that Pheran came from a Persian traveler who invented the garments to
protect himself from the cold of winter. increase.
There
is no consensus as to the origin of the word 'pheran'. However, it seems that
the word is a corruption of the Persian word 'perahan' which means shirt. The
outfit has been in vogue in Kashmir since before the 15th century.
Emperor
Akbar’s influence:-
However,
after conquering Kashmir on October 6, 1586, there is a general belief that
Akbar tamed the brave Kashmir and introduced clothing to engross himself in a
lazy lifestyle, Akbar. Bravely offered a friendship to King Yousuf Shah Chak of
Kashmir at the time and invited him to Delhi. When the king went to Delhi, he
was arrested and taken to Bihar prison, where he died and was buried. After the
king left the valley, it was easy for the Mughals to conquer the land and
ensure that the Kashmiris maintained their ties to Pheran.
Pheran
gives a sense of slowness:-
Whatever
the theory, Pheran gives a sense of slowness, and one wants to prolong this
sense during these times. Those who like sloths(Sloths are extremely
slow-moving mammals found in the rainforest canopies of Central and South
America) praised
laziness and invented this garment and gave it to the Kashmiris who loved it.
In his book The Valley of Kashmir, Sir Walter Lawrence blames Akbar for the
invention of this garment. Lawrence served as a settlement committee member of
Jammu and Kashmir in 1894.
British
missionary and educator Tindale Biscoe describes Kashmir's Pheran in the sun
and shade as follows: "Kashmiris do not like the Mughal Empire, the Afghans,
or those who follow them, but her love for Pheran is multifaceted. Pheran is
part of Kashmir culture and politics.
Pheran
is a part of Kashmir Politics:-
It
is a big fashion signature for the political as well as the celebrity people of
Kashmir. The latest designer Pheran is normally worn by former Chief Ministers-Dr.
Farooq Abdullah and his son Omar Abdullah in all the political activities held
especially in the Kashmir Valley. Other political party’s popular people always
wear a brand new person to welcome their attendees as well. Dr. Farooq -Abdullah
wore pheran at all the gatherings when Prime Minister Narendra Modi came to
Kashmir in 2016. There were politicians taking pictures of their different
styles of Pheran worn by them. The only exceptions were Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru
and Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah. At least I haven't seen their pictures with Pheran
in all the old snaps taken.
Kashmiris
take a Kangri under their Pheran normally while traveling in Winters: -
The
traditional Pheran is long and under the knee. But the modern variations of it
are shorter and smarter. Under Pheran, you can place a Kashmiri vessel made of
clay containing the burning splinters for keeping the body warm during the
intense winters. It is called a “Kangri”. It does not bring about dramatic
changes in clothing, so it reflects the historical continuity of Kashmir
culture. Today, if a 15th-century man suddenly wakes up in the city of Srinagar,
he will undoubtedly recall Pheran of his time.
Pheran
is a symbol of fashion in global events: -
Both
male and female Kashmiris from different parts of the world post selfies on
Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook and wear beautiful and colorful Pheran. It has
become a symbol of fashion in the apparel fashion competitions around the whole
globe. That way even in Europe this pheran is very popular since the climate of
most of the European countries is just similar to that of the Kashmir valley.
Pheran is used by terrorists for hiding the weapons and posing threat to the security forces:
-
This garment is also a witness to Kashmir's recent turbulent history. In the early 1990s, parents insisted that children, especially teenagers, avoid Pheran when leaving home because of the prosperity of militants under their protection. The militants transported weapons under Pheran. For those who wear Pheran, the Force was delusional. When they saw a man approaching them in Pheran, they noticed and asked him to take it off.
Pheran is an integral part of Kashmiri culture: -
In a nutshell, Pheran has long been associated with Kashmiri culture just as Kangri
and Kashmiri-cuisine and has been serving as the unisex garment for centuries
as the part of Kashmir’s traditional wear. Even in the ancient period according
to ‘Hieun-Tsang’, the Kashmiri people dressed in leather doublets and clothes
of White linen-which was nothing but the pheran of those times.
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